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Diving

French Polynesia's underwater world...

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The 118 high islands and atolls which comprise French Polynesia are justifiably renowned for their physical beauty. From the volcanic peaks of the Society Islands to the galaxy of atolls that is the Tuamotu archipelago to the rugged splendour of the Marquesas group, the islands offer a pristine world of mountains, rainforests, lagoons, beaches and reefs. But there is another world to Tahiti and her islands, one which equals and at times surpasses the beauty of its land. This is the world which lies beneath the surface of the sea.



The ocean sphere of French Polynesia occupies an area as large as Western Europe, and with virtually no heavy industry or contaminated run-off, the sea surrounding the islands of French Polynesia is closer to its natural state than in any other region on Earth. The waters in the lagoons and outside the coral reefs which enclose the island is translucent and warm. The average temperature of the ocean is 26° Celsius during the ‘winter’ season (June-September) and 29° during the ‘summer’ (October-May). Except at the height of the rainy season (December-February) visibility is usually 30 metres or more. April through November offers the best diving conditions. The warmth of the water means that only a lightweight wetsuit is necessary.

There are three main marine environments for divers to explore: the lagoons, the oceanic reef slopes and the passes through the reefs. Except in the Marquesas, which are mainly reefless, the high islands such as Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine and Bora Bora are surrounded by lagoons which reach an average depth of 30 metres. All the atolls of the Tuamotus, along with Maupiti and Tetiaroa atolls, feature a large central lagoon enclosed by a coral reef. These lagoons, sheltered from the ocean waves by their reefs, are easily accessible from the shore or from a small boat. Their waters are home to a variety of sponges, oysters and shells, while their coral pinnacles provide a natural habitat for fish such as angelfish, parrotfish, damselfish, butterflyfish, soldierfish, long-nosed emperors and grouper.

The underwater world of the lagoon is a palette of stunningly beautiful colours, from the oranges, blues and reds of the coral to the gorgeous multi-hued livery of the fish which hover about the pinnacles. Moving in shoals, tuned to each other’s movements like perfectly choreographed dancers, they constantly glide and dart among the coral outcrops. The lagoon fishes’ colours are like scores of brilliant neon lights: golden yellows, dazzling crimsons, shimmering sapphires, deep violets and scores of variegated or mottled colours. Less colourful but equally graceful rays and small sharks also inhabit the lagoons, foraging widely as they zig-zag through their waters. The sharks in French Polynesia are not aggressive.


For the more venturesome diver, the high islands’ and oceanic reefs offer a deeper and even more awesome world. Here the coral growths are more luxuriant and their exposure to the open sea and prevailing winds increases the richness of the marine life. There is a great range of coral amid the ocean reefs, including shelves, dropoffs, crevices and caves, providing a sheltered habitat for many colourful fish and crustaceans, including lobsters, jackfish, snappers, moray eels, and manta rays. A little way beyond the reefs, the open sea is home to tuna, Napolean wrasse, long-nosed unicornfish and at certain times of the year, the Pacific’s gentlest giant, the humpback whale.

Connecting the lagoons of French Polynesia with the open sea is the geographic feature known as the pass, or passage. This is a clear break in the coral reef, through which the ocean pours twice daily with the rise and fall of the tides. Not only does the pass ‘flush’ the lagoon with fresh sea water and keep it purified, the swiftly-flowing water within it carries a rich load of nutrients and thus forms a separate eco-system.

Although there is little coral growing within the passes, because of the strength of the tidal currents flowing through them, they are home to a huge number of fish of all varieties, which come to feed on the nutrients which the currents carry. In and around the passes are found masses of the great predatory species, sharks and barracudas, as well as giant manta rays and hordes of smaller fish. Guided diving in and around the reef passes is undoubtedly one of the highlights of scuba diving in French Polynesia.

The natural conditions for diving in French Polynesia are almost unequalled in the world. To facilitate diving for visitors there are over 20 professional dive centres in Tahiti, Moorea, Raiatea-Tahaa, Bora Bora, Rangiroa, Manihi and the Marquesas. All offer the facilities to enable both experienced and first-time divers to explore the glorious undersea world in comfort and safety.



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